As promised, a Kat rough guide to the Pink City:
Watch out for where to stay because I have had massively awful experiences with a place called Chit chat hotel/ restaurant. It's about 200 rs. per night - about 6 bucks- but you're living in a concrete bunker with a garage door and a huge padlock AND you never feel safe because the only people coming by are Indian men. P.s. they walk by your door and rap on it at night.
After one night, I'd had enough, so I left to Pearl Palace Hotel. It was a God send, as they say. The only room available was a 4-bed, balconied, hot shower available, t.v. included palace; and the cost hit at 700 rs. per night. The 200 rs. per night standard room that I initially wanted, including your own toilet and shower, was unfortunately booked already. It seems that my habit of arriving then deciding for a hotel doesn't always work out. But a bit of luxury is needed after 4 months of living in not so stunning conditions. 'The Pearl Palace is family run and well-established, and it shows; the furnishings are intricate and chosen with care, the rooms are spotless, and the restaurant on top serves some of the best Western and Indian food I had in the North, adding a truly unique Indian flare to the place.
Another great place I have stayed at was just around the corner from The Palace. The rooms there are also spotless, warm water is available, and room service is no extra charge. Basically, you have luck with any hotel in that 2 km radius.
So you have a place to sleep and an oasis in busy Jaipur- now what do you do? One word of advice that I picked up the hard way is don't go to the manufacturing district and warehouses. Rick shaw drivers (some) will tell you it's cheaper, and that technically make sense: the place where the shoes, textiles, clothing is made is the place where it is the cheapest. But that's not how the Jaipur sale crowd computes it. These places are money-traps. I think they are made just for the very purpose of ripping tourists and travellers off. I was taken to a few such places by a rickshaw wallah (see above for which hell hotel they took me to) and paid a price that was reasonable for me, with my Canadian dollar frame of mind. After much investigation and several trips to the bazaar and markets, I realized that I paid four times the going price. The difference was immense to me and to my pockets felt it. Here is a quick Jaipur chart of typical prices:
-Rajasthani slippers/thong sandals, leather, regardless of whether they are "camel" or not, because there is no way to prove it and its best assuming you are misinformed: 150-250 rs. per pair
-Traditional Rajasthani shoes pointy toes leather: 200-600 rs. no more though!!
-Rajasthani skirt/top/scarf set, regardless of "hand made quality, blah blah blah", but the price will vary according to material, length, and amount of real mirrors used in the design: 450 for a cotton set to 1600 for a silk one. 250 -600 for just the skirt. The thing is, after they sell just the skirt, they will have trouble selling the rest of the outfit, no one wants to mis match!
Bargain and if the price won't find its way down south then leave because most of the stores sell the same exact product. I found at least three stores selling the exact same outfit- must have been the same manufacturer. And the prices were all different; from 600 at a friends shop to 3000 at the manufacturing place!
-silk bed sheet/ blanket/ pillow set: between 800-2000 depending on quality, colour, what it looks like. Some are very fragile and badly made (flimsy) so look at the detail.
To do in Jaipur, your guidebook will tell you all. One suggestion is to plan a day visit to The Amber Fort; it's stunning and mostly in the open, so you can feel a fresh breeze and get panoramic views of the surrounding areas. It's like a maze, though, so dress comfortably and wear proper shoes. Also, prepare to take loads of pictures, so if you have a manual, bring extra rolls of film. Oh- and a water bottle or two. The hike up is half a km and no one sells water, although if you're used to the local one, taps are open half-way up so you can crouch and scoop some tap water.
The guided audio tour costs 100 extra rs. and is well worth it. It will tell you the history and meaning of the fort, along with some interesting facts to take home and inform everyone. If you follow the map and the guide, you will find beautiful scenic views from the fort that you might have not been able to find on your own. You'll have a laugh over the sound effects and actors: "I am AMBER FORT! I am formidable and strong and NO ONE passes my threshold!" Good stuff.
After the Amber Fort, go to the Tiger Fort for sunset. You can put your feet up, down a beer and munch on salted peanuts as the sun sets behind the Pink city. Snippets of conversation, shouting, music, and children laughing drift up to you from 13 km below. Dinner is at 7:30 in the open air restaurant, where you can sit in black wrought iron chairs and stare at the stars circling overhead. Oh, and don't hike to the fort. Make sure to take a rick!
Finally, another precaution: touts lurk at the major tourist sights. Children can be fun at first but eventually pester you to give them money and may try to grab at your purse if no one is around. The monkey fort is listed as a sight to see, but you may want to avoid it since the hike up is steep and long and inside the temple, the main guy will expect money for anything he does, even an unasked for blessing. The temple itself is quite small but the view is, again, stunning. There is a cluster of buildings on your left side as you climb that look like a neighbourhood in Jodhpur, seeing as they glisten blue in the sunlight. This is the old part of the city, so old in fact that the locals even refer to it as "Old City".
18.4.08
Jaipur mega post
14.3.08
Fashion Chennai
Not only is Chennai the fourth largest city in India, but an up-and-coming fashion and innovative design center. Don't believe me? With such names as Etalage, Hi-Style, and even Sperm (yes, you read that correctly) and hidden gems found throughout the city, it's hard to doubt Chennai's evolving style status.
Talks of developing a new mega-plaza complex in N'Bakkam only affirms what both brand names and smaller labels already knew- that this thriving Southern city is a perfect niche market.
The traditional coexists seamlessly with the modern; western-style dresses are beaded with intricate Indian patterns and sewn beautifully, large brands such as FabIndia retail salwar kameez sets in non-conventional patterns, such as polka-dots, and are flatteringly cut to fit a woman's form. This seeming paradox can be viewed best in the heart of the city- where every passer-by dons a different look. One girl could be wearing cool Levis with a breezy tunic, and the next could be glowing in a bright sari. This kind of individual style radiates on the streets, but is only now beginning to emerge.
Western influence, in the form of advertisements, the presence of classics such as Levi's and Nike, and tourists, aid in the development of the new attitude. This influence can best be experienced in Bollywood films, which add some heat to this trend with leading ladies sporting more cleavage and body hugging looks. In North America, it's all about original style. Mixing and matching vintage finds with designer stuff to create a distinct look is the norm. But Chennaites seem to favour two distinct looks: the flawless and elegant, or the newly developing diversion from this- which involves Western cuts and more skin. This can be demonstrated even by walking into Spencer Plaza and finding "party tops", clingy bright numbers with rips, rivets, and splashy text.
At the same time, you can't just walk into any store in the city and get exactly what you saw in the latest Vogue. Fit, look, and color are key to being in style, which is why walking into any tailor's shop will not yield the best results. Trailblazers such as Silkworm and Etalage can take custom orders and tailor-make the garment for an individual, with enough fashion insight and information to know exactly what "bubble hem", "asymmetrical cut", or "slouchy" implies. Having a global perspective gives companies like this an edge, and spearhead Chennai's growing label as "fashion hot spot".
So is it Western influence or a natural progression to more drama, a la Bombay, that is leading Chennai down this more edgy and Western road? Whatever the answer, the sexy modern look is only heating up.
6.3.08
Grande lattee, Extra Foam
Even as far away from home as India, Western coffee culture is still ingrained in my mind. It shows itself everyday- regardless of how hippy-chic I have become. I could denounce shaving my legs before I denounce that perfect steaming cup of rich goodness.
It's a case-in-point everyday; I want to write an article- where do I go? I can't possibly write at the flat because, even on the off chance that no one is home to distract me with fun, the area is constantly a mess. Concentration is impossible when, every two minutes, you glance up to glare at the pineapple stained wall (don't ask) or drift off, devising new methods of removing that 20-day-old juice stain on the floor. For a person whose mother is studying hygiene, and sharing very specific knowledge with everyone in the immediate family, the dirt is too much to bear.
Brainstorming outside seems ideal: the sunshine, open area, and greenery should foster creativity, right? Maybe if you lived in the countryside, and not in the city where the constant heat, pollution, and noise will slowly drive anyone insane. You crave a relaxed atmosphere.
So where can one go to escape and create, a place to focus? The answer is quite simple to me, really; a coffee shop! Not only can I score more caffeine than is humanly necessary to keep an active mind, but it's also air-conditioned. And clean.
More specifically, it's a structured ambient place where I can be constantly inspired to buckle down and get something done, newspaper work or otherwise.
Chennai can be seen as a haven for this type of culture. It's surprising to know that Starbucks hasn't dug it's corporate paws into the cafe-rich Chennai, especially in Nungambakkam, which houses the most popular and established cafes.
So whether you feel like a quick drink to keep you going, a relaxing atmosphere to ponder life in, or a place with a beat for a good time, look no further because this is the guide to the best cafes in town.
Oxford Book Store- Upstairs Cafe
ground floor of Apeejay House on Haddows Road
This light, free space features wood floors and excellent light to read by. Search the internet for 25 rs an hour or check out their great menu of items, which include Western, as well as Indian favorites. A great place to go to get some work done!
Mocha
Amethyst
Truly a gem. The lush gardens and tranquil standing water give way to an open courtyard enclosed in it's own mini-jungle. Posh and serene, this place can transform you into a creative poet, avid reader, or just a person needing a break. At night, the faerie lights are turned on and the young crowd can be seen in clusters at tables, mingling and catching up. It's entirely a smoking area, whether that is a good or bad thing. The prices are higher here than most cafes, but you always get what you pay for and here, you get only the best coffee, tea, and light fare.
Coffee Day and Hot Breads Bakery
23/124,Ispahani Centre, Nungambakkam High Road, Chennai, 600034 -
A relaxed, informal atmosphere where you can sit in chairs and lounge, reading the local paper available. It's reasonably priced, the desserts are delish, and the drinks are very creative. The staff are very friendly, funny. A cookie iced latte will leave you with a satisfied tummy and a sugar rush like no other! A cow bell hangs above the door- don't forget to ring it if you've had a good time!
Casa Piccola
Ok, so this isn't technically a cafe- it's a European resto loung and patio. But if the breeze is good on a particular day and you don't mind a limited coffee/ tea menu, then head up to the patio, complete with leather bean-bag chair, white washed walls, and low seated sofas. Watch the clouds drift by, the palm trees sway, and listen to the music. Be warned, though, since the tunes can range from mild ambient to hard core rap in the span of 10 minutes!
Barista Coffee Pub
Save the best for last! This cafe is the epitome of what Western coffee houses are, most of all Starbucks. It has both sofas and chairs to accommodate lone travelers or groups of people. You can get items to go with ease, or have a proper sit-down. The food is light and snack-y, with the main focus on quality of coffee. There is a noticeable casual cool vibe. Come here on a hot day top cool off and get your chill on.
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